2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20
The call of television, for me, is a certainty: put me a Capra e caboli on the small screen (in Alessandro Borghese's show “Four restaurants“) and you can be sure that, sooner or later, I'll want to go there.
And the call of pop, but also that curiosity that takes you when you realize that that place could have something interesting.
Here I am, then, in one of the coldest evenings of the season, in the neighborhood Island from Milan, which in addition to skyscrapers also has something else.
What intrigued me about this Goat and cabbage (but perhaps "Carp and cabbage" or even "Goat and stones" would have been more philologically correct) is that, even with a base of vegetarian cuisine and in some cases vegan, here we also eat fish.
Meat no, we don't say heresies, but fish is allowed. A sort of reversal of the poles: a restaurant for conscientious eaters, but with a small deviation from the rule for those who still give something to fish.
In short, to understand each other, a place where the many friends with whom we shared rib bones grilled in the garden, and who today have taken the "green" step, could also bring us simple people who still eat everything to dinner.
So two omnivores on a trip, it was said, show up at Capra and Cavoli because they saw him on TV.
Four steps and you have arrived in what would like to remember an indoor garden, with plants, swings, stone tables, various accessories that mix the Provencal style (which by now the new generation vegetarian restaurants should have learned to modernize at least a little) with an open kitchen, a mezzanine and umbrellas.
In short, a little loaded, but all in all pleasant.
There is one thing I can't make sense of: the hardbacks of the two chefs, put on display in the room, perhaps to remember the faces of those who are cooking for you.
I didn't understand, I'm still asking the question but not even the time to think about it and they assign us the table and then we get lost for half an hour looking at the menu.
It looks a bit like the menus of Japanese restaurants in Italy, the kind that give you a little help with the photo but here, sometimes, the content of the dish is not written.
On the other hand, you can read stories and suggestions on the recipes that are also very nice, only if we go on like this I'll get to the main courses in a week, and I'm hungry now.
The chef, but sometimes also the chef (she all dressed in white is the yin, he of course the yang and, listen, listen, to match the dark disposable kitchen gloves!) Come to the aid of the cryptic menu.
As an appetizer we choose to rely on the Falsiutore, a mix of mignon consisting of potato flatbread, thyme, lemon with birch smoked coconut cheese and oil with onion peel ash (yes, all this in just one of the tastings), then the Magnum veg with potatoes, vegetables and almonds and a vegan mayonnaise, then again Milanese risotto tarte tatin with Jerusalem artichoke chips, a caramelized Tropea onion with potato cream and finally a cherry tomato with orange peel and crumble panpanco, poppy seeds and pure pistachio paste.
You will not believe it but it is all in an appetizer: rather bizarre, in fact.
The supercazzola is missing, I would add, but we certainly appreciate the mixture of products from the South, recipes from the North and Asian touches: in short, a Milanese dish DOC 2.0. The dish costs 20 euros, the variety and quantity are good (two people make a “comfortable” appetizer).
Among the first courses we choose the non-risotto risotto (15 euros): celeriac grains risotto with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, creamed in butter with a "courgette marrow" and crispy potato chips.
In addition to being beautiful, this is a dish that would convince even non-skeptical skeptics.
The red thread is a certain underlying sweetness, but it is not cloying and indeed, it is a good discovery. Certainly not "vegan thing", but vegetarians might appreciate it a lot.
Could we not have experimented with vegan vegetable sushi?
MasterChef teaches that keeping the color of vegetables intact is very complicated, but here they have succeeded, they tell us, with the single cooking of each element in the dish: pepper, onion, aubergine, carrots, daikon, cauliflower with sushi rice base., teriyaki sauce, a remarkable fried aubergine maki and ginger chips (deadly spicy, I warn you).
Thus, even vegetarians (with 18 eurini) can put on their chopsticks and give themselves a Japan tone: not a little, given the raw material, but let's be good and we also consider the work behind it.
It would take me a week and I would feel exhaustion, so to speak.
Second section: after vegan mayonnaise and vegetable sushi I have a crossroads in front of me. Continue on animal rights virtuosity or consider having given my minimum contribution to the cause and being able to grant myself at least some fish.
You know the answer.
Back in the ranks with octopus on chestnut cream and shitake mushrooms. Full-bodied portion for a well roasted octopus (crunchy in the thin parts and soft in the heart of the tentacle).
Of course 25 euros are not few …
I also taste the cod with Taggiasca olives, basil cream and late radicchio. Here, too, a portion (too much) generous for a 22 euro dish. Without infamy and without particular flashes for an excessively baroque presentation.
We have the impression that Capra e Cavoli is pursuing what they call addition cuisine. Perhaps some dishes would be better off a little more basic and with less elaboration and frills that only distract.
"That's it, lipstick and chocolate …" Vanoni sang, and by dint of singing she inspired the chef who interpreted a slightly sinful song in her own way.
The dessert (one in two or else I risk going out of an almost vegetarian restaurant fuller than the mid-August grill) is delicious and beautiful. A romantic little heart-shaped cake with three chocolates and a festival of more “erotic” raspberry pralines.
Desserts range from 7 to 15 euros, but if they are all like that, it's also worth it.
PRO: the attempt to create a space of (almost) non-discrimination. This, remember, is a territory for vegetarians, friends of vegans and with some knowledge even among fish lovers.
In short, it seems like a snapshot of contemporary people, undecided about what to do (fish yes or no?), Tired of the tristarello pinzimonio and the usual vegan brown creams.
It is a place in which the tireless carnivore will not enter, but which could conquer the flexitarian or the gourmets in the process of change.
And then some dishes definitely deserve, one above all the risotto, not risotto, but also the dessert. In fact, I also saw a veg burger passing by that looked great, but I can't tell you about that.
AGAINST: do you know when your table "dances"? Here it can happen instead that the plate "dances" to you: wooden mats, plates on the edges and personal clumsiness. All this contributes to not being exactly comfortable and relaxed: ergonomics is a concept to be applied, right?
Some dishes are revisable, in the sense that without drama they should be simplified and made simpler and more recognizable in the primary flavors.
Even some prices could be slightly filed in favor of non-discrimination of the main courses (which are a bit too expensive compared to the rest of the menu).
Oh I forgot, the hardcover of the chefs. Those, even now that I'm home, I still don't understand them.