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Lievità: the most super-special of all the pizzas in Milan?
Lievità: the most super-special of all the pizzas in Milan?

Video: Lievità: the most super-special of all the pizzas in Milan?

Video: Lievità: the most super-special of all the pizzas in Milan?
Video: LIVING on WORLD'S BEST PIZZA (Only $1.68)! 2024, March
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One thing unleashes the fatal wrath of those who love the Pizza Neapolitan and obstinately persevering, the diehards of the Masonic lodge P-za, founded on the slogan Hands off the daisy.

What really freaks them out, making them prone to scorn themselves like deer in love is the concept of gourmet pizza.

I had expressed doubts about the definition myself, along with illustrious critics, but when I found myself in front of the famous gourmet pizza it won the gluttony. The mental ruminations on the true, probable, the Platonic idea and hyperuranium? Puff, forget.

The definition is perplexing but the pizza is good, and that's enough.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

The other evening, a new chapter of the saga: I receive an invitation from the Pizzeria Yeastness from Milan.

I have praised the wonders, but grabbing a cover is difficult, the place is small and reservations are not accepted.

I decide to take advantage of the opportunity for the first taste even though it is a special evening, with the pizzas of Giorgio Caruso, 31 years old from Caserta, the restaurant's pizza chef, who meet the combinations of the Neapolitan chef Federico Campolattano.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

The special evening at Lievità includes the tasting of 4 gourmet pizzas, I am early and, in the meantime, I dedicate myself to inspecting the menu.

The menu has two sections: one entirely dedicated to gourmet daisies, the other to extreme gourmet daisies. In short, gourmet everywhere.

Calm down, do not get hot, let me explain: the 9 daisies of Lievità have nothing of the gourmet pizza as we know it, or rather, as the undisputed pioneers of the genre made it known to us, Simone Padoan de I Tigli (San Bonifacio, Verona), Renato Bosco of Saporè (San Martino Buonalbergo, Verona), Nerio Beghi of Sirani (Bagnolo Mella, Brescia).

No focaccia used as a base, no higher thickness, no classic cut into wedges, no lukewarm post-oven processing, no daring fillings as well as dairy products and tomatoes. Above all: no mortgage prices (see the 20 most expensive pizzas in Italy).

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

To understand each other, Lievità is the paradise of the daisy for those who, like us, love its only apparent simplicity.

It can be chosen in the versions designed to pay homage to the three main ingredients: flour, tomato, cheese. The dough is made with wholemeal and semi-wholemeal type 1 flour, 100% Italian soft wheat, selected and stone ground. For long leavening (between 24 and 48 hours) mother yeast is used.

Let's move on to the condiments of the daisies: San Marzano and fiordilatte di Agerola, Piennolo del Vesuvio and buffalo mozzarella from Campania DOP, black Kumato tomatoes with smoked provola from Agerola, yellow tomatoes and fiordilatte, and so on.

There is even a margherita with a raw triptych of yellow, black Kumato and Corbarini tomatoes (with buffalo mozzarella and basil).

Prices range from 8.50 to 13 euros.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

I felt like ordering four daisies and skipping the evening with the gourmet pairings, but I'd look bad.

It begins with "An Italian cod in Germany" (the chef works in the Teutonic lands): creamed cod, dried tomatoes, turnip greens, black olives from Caiazzo, Agerola fiordilatte, lemon.

The pizza is served in abundant wedges (a quarter in practice), at first the lemon plays the part of the intruder, instead it turns out to be a welcome presence.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

Then it's the turn of “Pompei”: sautéed chicory, Piennolo tomato from Vesuvius DOP, provolone del Monaco DOP, anchovy sauce from Cetara.

The degree of conviction rises: the dough is soft, the well-developed cornice invites, the topping is rich, less ordered but much more enjoyable than gourmet pizzas.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

The third "gourmet" pizza arrives: it is called "The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies": ancient tomato of Naples Miracle of San Gennaro, capers from Salina bio, anchovies from Menaica, fresh basil.

Apotheosis: very good pizza, fleshy tomato in massive quantities, flavor ensured by anchovies and capers, a little wonder. In fact, they let us know that from April it will be on the menu.

God bless Lievità.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

The fourth and last pizza is called "Masaniello": late radicchio DOP, fiordilatte di Agerola, sweet DOP gorgonzola, prunes, fresh thyme, veal stock.

The most gourmet of the evening is this recipe, which with the veal stock, but also with the sweet plum, disrupts the most classic flavors and gives some unexpected notes to a pizza.

pizza, lightness, milan
pizza, lightness, milan

THE MORAL OF THE FAIRYTALE LEAVEN

Can you get an idea of what Lievità's pizza is by participating in a "gourmet" evening?

Of course: the dough is from the championship of the Dissapore pizza, the tastings convinced, the ingredients are matched with the eye of a Caserta man who "knows". I am left with a killer desire to come back already tonight to try the daisies, from which I literally expect wonders.

Is Lievità's pizza a gourmet pizza?

No, in the "Venetian school" meaning of the term. Yes, in the sense that there is great attention to every single step, to the combination of tastes, and in the list of "extreme gourmets" there are some habits of a chef, rather than a pizza maker.

But if I were not afraid of clogging up the new pizza dictionary I would like to define it as gourmand, since it is greedy, rich, satisfying.

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