2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20
What you see is the first photo of the new one DO, on the central square of San Pietro all’Olmo, a few meters from the first D’O, the place near Milan where the chef Davide Oldani, in thirteen years, he has written an important chapter of Italian cuisine.
Indeed, technically it is a rendering (the works, although close to completion, are not yet at this point).
It illustrates a report by Maurizio Bertera on Stile, an insert from the Giornale that you will find on newsstands today, on this second D'O that the pop chef will open in a few weeks: on two floors, much larger and more articulated than the first, which has recovered the concept of dining room.
"A 'home' space where those who sit by reservation accept my every choice unlike the other fifty guests who decide on the basis of the card", explains Oldani.
But what can you learn by reading Stile about the new and amazing adventure of the star chef, one of the most active and parsley in Italy? (Turn on the TV and pop out with the wonders of the Cloud, go out to look at the windows and he winks from the cover of Pop Food, leave for a weekend and find the logo at Malpensa, luckily Expo is over, the kiosk of Oldani, which I tell you to do, was in pole position at the entrance).
That the partner in crime of the new restaurant is Piero Lissoni, archistar and Italian master of architecture and design, struck by the way of the caramelized onion, which remains the chef's most famous dish, and his longtime friend.
That this time Oldani studied the layout of the place, designed the kitchen, thought about the lighting, also designed tables and chairs, so that people were comfortable and could start digestion before coffee. And finding space in the seats so that the mobile phone and glasses do not remain on the surface but still within reach.
Lissoni, who gives a very negative general opinion on the places where you eat, not only in Italy, starting from the very little attention to acoustics ("in many rooms, you can't speak normally"), speaks of the second D'O as a restaurant & shop or even better a factory, in the sense of a place of making.
It is not hidden that the difference with the celebrated and hyper-booked trattoria (the D'O we have known so far) will be quite disconcerting.
"I am convinced that the public will be divided into two categories: those who will say 'but what is it?' And those who will regret the old man," says Oldani, knowingly.
Lissoni adds a third category: “those who will be amazed“.
You, looking at that first rendering, which side are you on?