Table of contents:
- 7. Metropolitan Market, Milan
- 6. SanLorenzo Mercato, Palermo
- 5. Mercato di Mezzo, Bologna
- 4. Market of the Suffrage, Milan
- 3. Metropolitan Market, Turin
- 2. New Testaccio Market, Rome
- 1. Central Market, Florence
2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20
If I say (1) Gourmet large-scale distribution, (2) gastronomy and (3) a disadvantaged context, all to rethink, you answer Eataly Rome in Ostiense, right? You are right, it is.
Instead, if I say (1) small producers, (2) Slow Food presidia, (3) km. zero and (4) anything that settles our conscience of gluttonous eaters you answer Earth markets, right? Very well, you are prepared.
Now think of the missing link between Eataly on one side and the Earth Markets on the other.
Welcome! You have just entered one of the markets 2.0 which for some time have been populating Italian cities.
New taste courts born from the urban recovery and filled with street food where you can eat dishes cooked by the shops according to traditional local recipes, or where to shop among Dop, bio, chefs, designer pizzas, carrot centrifuged, tortellini for strolling and dispencer for the wine.
Here is a brief overview of the new Italian covered markets, do not miss other suggestions if you can think of them.
Since we are called Dissapore, we start with those who didn't make it.
7. Metropolitan Market, Milan
The acidity of the mother yeast, the not too intrusive salty of a gourmet pizza with stracciatella, the sweetness of the cookies and the bitterness of the Taglio Milano espresso (priceless place, open from breakfast to the last glass). Aromatic herbs among the exhibitors, just enough.
The ingredients were all there, for the success of Metropolitan Market of Porta Genova. Add to that that it opened with Expo 2015, in an old railway depot: a combination of initial turnout and a good reputation for re-evaluating an area of the Navigli that could only end well.
But no. The lights of the Tree of Life went out and, sorry for the sad metaphor, even MM didn't make it. Accumulated debts and foreclosures. The news of the closure due to debts or, if you prefer, the flop is in April.
The prices weren't for everyone, despite their slogan being “not a luxury”. Now we cheer for the Turin version: other management, with a more pleasant setting and guaranteed passage not just for a few months. You will see later.
IN SHORT: dispersive, more expensive than expected.
Vote: 5, 5, for the good memory of some evening.
6. SanLorenzo Mercato, Palermo
The new Palermo commercial center becomes the bearer of an important witness.
Solve the problem of the distribution of Sicilian foods and overcome the poor integration between producers that has always characterized the island. He stated this in an interview with Panorama Dario Mirri, the entrepreneur who took the trouble to open the new Palermo market in an ancient citrus grove of the 40s.
San Lorenzo, so called because it is located at number 288 on the street of the same name, has been open for just two months every day from 10 to 23.
250 producers in 1,500 square meters of surface and another 1,200 of outdoor area to make known, taste and sell Sicilian excellences, with great attention to indigenous DOP, organic, eco-sustainability.
Then nine "botteghe del gusto" (also here you can eat directly among the exhibitors), cultural events and a busy agenda dedicated to children. “Educational workshops, school visits, games and training experiences to convey the values of proper nutrition and conscious eating”, as Mirri explained to the local press.
It may be that it has just opened but for now it is essentially a beautiful place without a soul, there are products but there are no producers, there are shops but there are no shopkeepers. Anyway, we'll be back on that shortly.
IN SHORT: Courage and good quality but mission (for now) unfinished.
Vote 6, 5.
5. Mercato di Mezzo, Bologna
Another case of a dilapidated structure that has become a chic covered market with gourmet proposals. Like Gino Fabbri's café - patisserie - bar (it opens at 9 am, breakfast is almost a must), Eataly's pizzeria, which occupies the entire first floor, Baladin beers in the basement. The kiosks are delicious: the choice is great, especially on fish.
Oscar Farinetti was not the only one to believe in the project; Coop Adriatica spent 800 thousand euros for the restructuring of the Mercato di Mezzo.
Considering the prices in Bologna, a cocktail here (which is not possible more in the center) costs nothing: 5 euros and is absolutely "right".
IN SHORT: A clear invitation to return to shopping in the city center.
4. Market of the Suffrage, Milan
The place is reminiscent of a latest generation McDonald's, one of the prefabricated buildings at the entrance to the ring road, frequented by truck drivers and licensed for a day.
Forgive them, it was a disused municipal building, adjusted as it can with design and color. It is anything but out of town, it is located a few steps from Piazza delle Cinque Giornate.
The idea comes from the artisan baker Davide Longoni, in second place in the Dissapore ranking of the best artisan bakeries Italians, this explains the wide range of doughs on offer and the leading role of the pizza, beautiful and good, whose notoriety makes food and wine, fish crudités and natural wines overshadowed.
Many vegetarian proposals, a beautiful display of products for sale. We point out the croissant with ice cream, an alternative version of the Sicilian brioche.
IN BRIEF: Several goodies.
Rating: 7, 5.
3. Metropolitan Market, Turin
The new Porta Susa station is beautiful. While you wait for the coincidence you have time to admire it. From the glass ceiling you see the sun rise in the sky, reflect on the brand new steel and you ask yourself: "What do I do now?"
A few steps from there, godsend for bored commuters (opening hours 7.30, 22.30), the Metropolitan Market of Turin occupies the nineteenth-century structure that was stopped for trains.
Since December last year and thanks to an idea of the entrepreneur Andrea Rasca (creator of the MM format, which as we have told you has nothing to do with the failure of Milan) artisan shops, street food and gastro-events welcome you as you owes to those who arrive in Turin, by rail or not.
Don't miss the Enoteca Palazzo Mentone with its wine dispensers: twenty-four wines from North to South Italy, beautiful bottles that are always different to self-administer in three possible doses: "taste", "more because I didn't understand" and "so much then Trenitalia guide ".
A formula that had meshed well with his cousin MM from Porta Genova, Milan. We hope that it will bring more luck to Turin.
IN SHORT: many DOP, valid "wine list", in a slightly unlucky area of Turin
2. New Testaccio Market, Rome
Dried fruit, hanging clothes and vegetable pyramids. Here the market is just what you got used to as a child.
Combine a modern architectural structure, designed by architect Marco Rietti in the heart of the Eternal City, and you will have 5,000 square meters of captivating contrast between nostalgia and modernity that is worth a visit.
You can find everything here, from pork couples to footwear, from fresh hand-rolled pasta to salted anchovies. The new approach, compared to the classic stalls, lies in the presence of Cristina Bowerman, starred chef of Glass and Romeo, with Cups-Testaccio Market, where the Cups are small bowls filled with tortellini, soups, salads and cod.
And again the gluten free of In Veritas food, the presence of Slow Food presidia such as the noble milk of the Campania Apennines (from Scaramurè) and street food, well represented by Sergio Esposito and from its sandwich with allesso, or the boiled heifer (female bovine that has never given birth).
IN SHORT: proposals consistent with the Roman style, successful renovation.
Vote: 8, 5.
1. Central Market, Florence
The mid-nineteenth century Universal Exposition structure is by Giuseppe Mengoni. That of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. The idea of taking it back in hand, after many years of inactivity, comes from the catering entrepreneur Umberto Montano.
So in 2014 the covered market of San Lorenzo came back to life with a not unpretentious formula. From 10 in the morning until midnight you buy, drink, learn to cook, read. And you eat naturally.
The restaurants are many, and all the dishes offered are cooked exclusively with raw materials sold on site. Then one goes home with a bovine stomach in the bag and tries to replicate the famous lampredotto by Lorenzo Nigro, among the chefs of the Central Market. Why not.
At the beginning, the baker David Bedu cut the San Lorenzo loaf (with yeast obtained from the "mother" of the vin santo "), Franco Parola refiner from Saluzzo proposed a small selection of tome d’alpeggio and Tuscan pecorino cheeses.
A Montecatini fishmonger lowered a delicious horse mackerel tartare onto the counter, and the world pastry champion Cristian Beduschi invited you to taste the delicious Setteveli cake ice cream.
It could only be a success.
IN SHORT: Typical. Beautiful. At times enthusiastic. Super urban recovery.
Vote: 9, 5