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2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20
The best Carbonara of Rome you eat from Roscioli (you know I'm right but you don't want to give up, you don't want to give it to me). I'm talking about the Roscioli delicatessen, in via dei Giubbonari, the one that exhausts your appetite from the outside with the window: whole hams, wild smoked salmon from Alaska, cheeses, a dizzying string of wines.
Some think that dining in a grocery store, as dark as a Caravaggio painting and to some extent decadent, is a bizarre solution. First dine at Roscioli's then we'll talk about it.
The delicatessen is the second act of the Roscioli in the capital, whose story begins in 1972 with the purchase of the oven of Via dei Chiavari, near there.
Trace the identikit of the Roscioli oven? Very simple for the Romans: the one that with the smell of freshly baked bread smells the whole Campo de 'Fiori already at 5 in the morning.
Trace the identikit of the family Roscioli today? This is also easy: four generations of a lineage that started with 11 brothers from the Marche region, which, apart from the bakeries in Piazza Vittorio (specialized in pizza and mortadella or pizza with porchetta) and on the Tuscolana, subtly traps you in a kind of triangle of temptation:
top the OVEN
left side the SALUMERIA
right side the CAFFE 'in Largo Benedetto Cairoli.
(And for the moment silence on the "Bolla su Bolla" champagneria).
TOP VERTEX: Forno Roscioli
In the temple of Pierluigi Roscioli, regulars practice the cult of the unrivaled Panettone del baker: natural leavening and few aromas. It is also found out of season.
Bread, sandwiches, rustic dishes, ready meals and a corner dedicated to cold cuts and wine: the oven is a small self-sufficient world.
From the cramped spaces of the laboratory, 15 quintals of bread come out a day, including the celebrated sandwich bread made in American molds brought 60 years ago by the legendary uncle Franco.
Two yeasts are used: one at a constant pH for the white bread, the other acid, obtained from the water of the potatoes, for the rustic bread. Some loaves, even wholemeal ones, are small masterpieces: uniform and well distributed alveoli, crunchy crusts, moist and pasty crumb.
LEFT SIDE: Salumeria Roscioli
Opened in 1991, it was transformed to become a restaurant in 2002. The carbonara, as mentioned, is the best in Rome (there is also a takeaway version, a kit for the Smaliziano gourmet and fashion-victim consisting of pasta Verrigni, eggs by Paolo Parisi, fresh bacon vacuum-packed, Sarawak pepper and pecorino romano PDO).
Today it is a long tunnel full of delicacies where you can't eat without a reservation, and some lucky ones order bottles of 5,000 euros over the phone.
To name a few: a dream wine shop with 2,500 labels, 300 different cheeses, 100 varieties of cured meats and about a hundred preserves. "Who at first only bought Stefano Bonilli", jeers Alessandro Roscioli speaking of the late former director of Gambero Rosso, who had elected the delicatessen as his private residence.
Only products by great Italian and non-Italian artisans, a model reminiscent of the famous metropolitan delis such as Dean & DeLuca in New York. Even in prices not exactly for everyone.
RIGHT SIDE: Roscioli coffee
The room develops in length divided between the living area and the internal room, anticipated by the usual killer showcase overflowing leavened products, this time, arriving from the laboratory behind. Typical Roman pastarelle such as the irresistible cream marinades and a savory offer with panini and sandwiches.
I go in and ask for a coffee. "Which one?"
The Roscioli have equipped themselves with a double method machine capable of managing different mixtures, therefore with different temperatures and pressures. In practice, gathered in the single body of the machine (there are 5 in the world) there is a block with a manual Neapolitan pump and the other with a volumetric pump.
The coffee offer is not bad. The rotation offers different blends according to the seasons, those of Gianni Frasi stand out, especially the Caffè delle Terre Alte in Huehuetenango, Slow Food Presidium of Guatemala.
Right attention also for the world of filter coffee with blends with different roasts and the presence of V60, the "V" -shaped instrument with an angular width of 60 ° (hence the name) that distils the coffee through a previously moistened paper filter.
The protagonist of the internal room, set back from the rhythms of the cafeteria, is the social table for 8-10 people used for private dinners, tastings, especially for an aperitif. Wines, cured meats, Normandy oysters, typical cheeses, seafood, platters and sandwiches.
For me Club sandwich and Bloody Mary, thank you. (Here it is prepared with confit tomatoes and with the brown stock that you learn in the first lesson of each cooking class. It is strange, pungent, tasty).
I could end the day in glory with champagne by the glass or a craft beer from Bubble on Bubble, the convivial and temporary "champagneria" (closes 1 September) opened by the Roscioli brothers in Piazza di Montevecchio, not far from Piazza Navona. Maybe helping me with a raw fish.
I could, but there is a limit even to the resistance of an unpunished taster like me. Then I should rewrite the whole post talking about the tempting quadrilateral. And it doesn't seem the case to me.