2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20
“Listen, there would be something to write on the plate you see in this photo”.
“Don't tell me it's there carbonara 3.0 by Davide Oldani which I also saw three seconds ago and which I immediately discarded as yet another reinterpretation ".
"Yes it's her"
"But they are the usual old-fashioned reinterpretations of traditional recipes, do you remember that of Jamie Oliver who made you write 'J amie, se te pio te hollow your eyes'?
“Yes, but Oldani knows very well that carbonara is very popular on the web, and therefore…”.
"I get it. So let's see 'this is wonderful, go.."
Thus begins the story of this post on Davide Oldani's carbonara 3.0. Indeed, on another, yet another, further reinterpretation of one of the most popular dishes at national level. Which lately seems to have no peace.
The video of the French carbonara that appeared recently on the net was not enough to overturn the original recipe, a video where in a nice pot they were put together abundant onion (sigh), bacon, pasta and water, making a shapeless pimp where they were then thrown on, aa raw, egg yolk and cream.
No, this havoc was not enough. Now Davide Oldani gets in too. Even for him the traditional carbonara just doesn't go down.
She must have done something, Santa Carbonara, she must have killed someone, she must have committed some unclean crime, because now there is no site, there is no chef, there is no host who does not invent a "revisited" carbonara.
And who doesn't put pecorino cheese, and who puts bacon, who prosciutto, who cream, who onion, who makes risottata (still sigh), in short, despite the fact that it is one of the most popular dishes in the peninsula, it seems that actually tasting it in the traditional way sucks a little to everyone. And therefore, down to "reinterpretations"
What can we say, then, of this Oldani carbonara with the now trito (also that) suffix 3.0, created for the Barilla World Pasta Championship held yesterday in Parma and which Oldani will also offer in the menu of the new D'O di Cornaredo at 13, 50 euros except that it is yet another revisitation?
Of course, the ingredients are the original ones: pasta, pecorino, eggs and bacon, but they are used in a different way:
1. The bacon is not fried but it is dehydrated and spread on top (…).
2. The egg custard becomes a real salty custard.
3. Pasta is, as Oldani says, “cooked in a pan as is done with rice”, then practically risotto and, as if that weren't enough, cooled and fried to give it the crunchiness of an appetizer.
4. The pecorino, fortunately, seems to have remained faithful to itself.
5. All presented not in common and too ordinary dish, but in a… you guessed it! In a sort of glass, like all the first Italians now, from chickpea soups to pasta with mussels.
In short, another “deconstructed”, “lightened”, revisited dish.
A craving, that of "deconstruction" that seems to have taken over the body and mind of the chefs in a fury of disruption and modernization - as well as a sure ruin - of traditional Italian dishes which, frankly, would not be so much needed.
Now, no one doubts either Oldani's abilities or the exquisiteness of this refined composition.
Indeed, the writer sided with the bony chef when he brought out the story of butter in Ligurian pesto, which caused many to scream scandal and which instead is a fairly frequent practice in Liguria, as per the recipe that, decades ago, he gave to myself an old Ligurian cook.
To say, the writer has nothing against the good Oldani, indeed he esteems him, like everyone else, as one of the best talents in the gastronomic field.
But the fact remains that his "carbonara 3.0" does not convince.
Not with this name.
The velvety cream accompanied by crunchy pasta and a sprinkling of grated bacon is another thing, which of the tasty national dish (or of American derivation, but yes, we understand each other) has only the name, and one wonders why.
But perhaps, the reason is the same for which this same post was written: carbonara, "pulls".