10 trattorias that make Apulians proud

2023 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 11:20

Dilemma: the Puglia it is the longest region in Italy, it takes 4 hours by car to cover those interminable 400 kilometers. Further complication: the region's gastronomy is divided in two, a proud defense of tradition on the one hand, tiella or muerte genre, tension for modern cuisine on the other.

They all say that the common soul must be sought precisely in the amalgamation of innovation and burnt wheat (traditional poor dish), between Michelin stars and stoves (butchers with kitchen) or trabucchi (rustic rooms overlooking the sea).

A cuisine that knows how to be "high" even when it is popular especially in the old and new trattorias, perhaps not always trattorias in the orthodox sense of the term.

Take advantage of this list especially if you have decided that you will spend your next holidays in Puglia.

THE TURACCIOLO - ANDRIA

It is located in one of the oldest squares in the city, under the 18th century Palazzo Ceci. The dishes that accompany the wine tasting are rustic: croutons, omelettes, flans or legume soups with spontaneous Murge vegetables.

Wine list that continuously increases with honest top-ups, pride of the sommelier Luciano always available to suggest the most appropriate pouring by the glass.

The Turacciolo, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 4 - Andria

Prices: 20/40 euros.

PERBACCO - BARI

Find the restaurant that the host Beppe Schino has been conducting with self-denial for years, just a few steps from the city waterfront and the nightlife of the ancient village. Some interpretations of the Apulian classics are masterful, for example the purée of chicory with fresh broad beans, but the menu bears witness to a pleasant island of creativity, without ever exaggerating.

The cellar is ideal for those who want to learn more about the abnormal Apulian wine offer.

Perbacco, via Abbrescia 99 - Bari

Prices: 30/40 euros

LA CUCCAGNA - CRISPIANO (TARANTO)

Walking along a winding country road surrounded by citrus groves you arrive at Crispiano, a small village that proudly preserves the tradition of the Apulian cooker.

Grilling lamb, sausages, bombette and gnummarieddi (lamb internal rolls) remains the strong point of the restaurant, although dishes such as wild asparagus carbonara or the numerous preparations based on thistle, a spontaneous plant that here it has been rediscovered, suggesting other directions.

Stunning wine list, about 600 labels mainly of natural wines that Gianni Marsella, as a true pioneer, has been selecting in the vineyard for over twenty years.

La Cuccagna, Corso Umberto 162 - Crispiano (Taranto)

Prices: 20/35 euros

LA BOTTEGA DELL’ALLEGRIA - CORATO (BARI)

Informal atmosphere, traditional cuisine and a good glass of wine. This, in an extreme synthesis, is the identity of the place that offers legume soups, wild herbs with homemade pasta and splendid grilled meats with a special mention for horse meat.

The owner's efforts to find only the best of the area are commendable.

La Bottega dell’allegria, via Imbriani 49 - Corato (Bari)

Prices: 20/35 euros

THE ANCIENT EVENINGS - LESINA (FOGGIA)

The beautiful view of Lake Lesina and the glance amplified by the windows of the restaurant make the stop very pleasant.

Fresh water specialties prevail on the menu well rooted in the territory, and the eel made in all possible ways is not to be missed, it is worth the trip by itself.

The Antiche Evenings, via Micca 22 - Lesina (Foggia)

Prices: 30/40 euros.

MASSERIA BARBERA - MINERVINO MURGE (BARI)

Le Murge are a mine of unparalleled primordial flavors, if you don't believe it book your table in this masseria. Precise, solid, typical flavors such as donkey sausage and grilled gnumarieddi.

A refuge for the catkins of meat and home-made bread with a lot of hospitality culture. The rooms of the farm are also recommended

Masseria Barbera, state road 97, km 5, 850 - Minervino Murge (Bari)

Prices: 30/40 euros

ANCIENT FLAVORS - MONTEGROSSO D’ANDRIA (ANDRIA)

Each of us retains the memory of a restaurant where the catch goes directly from the sea to the table: Less usual is the trattoria where, once the order is complete, the chef goes shopping in his garden.

This is the reality of Pietro Zito's cuisine: vegetarian without ideological proclamations, traditional, omnivorous. The generous land produces, he cooks clear flavors with little mediation. Book well in advance!

Trattoria Antichi Sapori, piazza sant’Isidoro 7 - Montegrosso d’Andria (Andria)

Prices: 30/40 euros

THE ANCIENT LOCANDA - NOCI (BARI)

In the historic center of Noci, an evocative environment entirely carved out of stone welcomes you. You eat in the small square of the historic center among houses, churches and streets and the unmissable Terra Madre cavatelli handmade with Senatore Cappelli durum wheat, in great demand, the pride of Pasquale Fatalino, owner and cook of the restaurant as well as the absolute protagonist of the local gastronomy.

Try the vineyard tops, the fricelli alla pastorella (tomato, eggplant and fresh ricotta) and the rabbit with herbs.

As a dessert, a long and varied path of cheeses.

The Antica Locanda, via Santo Spirito 49 - Noci (Bari)

Prices: 35/40 euros

IL CANTO DEI BISCHERI / LE GIARE - BARI

Massimo Lanini, "cursed Tuscan" but adopted by Bari, has transformed a banal and inanimate hotel restaurant (Hotel Rondò) into a brilliant place that you must know.

The restaurant, where the chef Antonio Bufi, from Molfetta, experiments without limits to the imagination, has been joined by the tavern Il Canto dei Bischeri: the absolute protagonists are the traditional dishes.

And this is just the beginning because since September the tavern has grown with the opening of a new restaurant in the city center. There is no wine list (almost exclusively natural) because it would be too bulky.

Il Canto dei Bischeri / Le Giare, Corso De Gasperi 308 - Bari

Prices: 35/40 euros

ANCIENT WORKSHOPS - PUTIGNANO (BARI)

After a seemingly endless apprenticeship, Stefano D'Onghia opened his first tavern in a former princely residence built in 1300, in one of the most beautiful squares in the entire region.

The solid menu that speaks the language of the territory manages to offer an incredible quality / price ratio, a further merit of the chef.

There are the borage omelette, the fried lampascioni with vincotto and the potato and cod mousse, which returns in an excellent pasta dish (a real fix for the cook), the crazy wheels with cod, nuptials and cherry tomatoes. The classic orecchiette with brasciola sauce are also splendid.

Ancient Shops, piazza Plebiscito 8 - Putignano (Bari)

Prices: 30/40 euros