Analysis of the differences between the pizzeria da Michele in Naples and that of Rome
Analysis of the differences between the pizzeria da Michele in Naples and that of Rome

Video: Analysis of the differences between the pizzeria da Michele in Naples and that of Rome

Video: Analysis of the differences between the pizzeria da Michele in Naples and that of Rome
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Anonim

When it became known that the Antica Pizzeria da Michele would have opened in Rome, open heaven !, on Facebook it was all an indignation.

For purists, the attempt to export the soul of Naples by taking the brand of a centenary pizzeria so deeply rooted in the territory elsewhere was destined to fail.

The Antica Pizzeria da Michele, for the uninitiated, is the Neapolitan pizzeria par excellence. The menu does not exist, you just have to specify if you want a margherita or a marinara. Marble tables, authentic surroundings, impossible lines, low prices.

It has been like this for almost 150 years.

In reality, there are already two pizzerias that can boast the original sign in Japan; we presented the one in Tokyo during a recent pizza-tour in Japan, a new opening in London was recently announced.

We were in Rome a week after the official opening: hold on tight, because the pizzeria open at the Explora educational center is part of a "light" franchising, as CEO Fausto Baccari explained to us during our long chat.

Previously at Banca Nazionale del Lavoro, general manager of Diners and ITR, with an experience therefore halfway between banking and fashion, Baccari told us that there are plans for further expansion in Milan and Florence.

Still, according to the manager, the "Da Michele" brand has strength and power of attraction perhaps not yet fully perceived by Alessandro - fifth generation of the Condurro family - who while remaining faithful to simplicity and minimalism (as well as to the oven itself, still his place from the early days) has instead sensed the potential of the Neapolitan tradition in export format.

A viral DNA, a success based on exceptional products capable of stimulating spontaneous word of mouth.

These are the agreements that led to the partnership between Baccari and the Condurro, friends for a long time: during the first six months in the Roman restaurant Marco Condurro will be present that, just to reiterate the attachment to the family pizza. demanded the presence of only Neapolitan pizza chefs trained at home, and a pizza recipe very similar to that of the historic headquarters in Via Cesare Sersale 1.

Obviously wood-fired oven, pizza dough leavened at least 24 hours, identical ingredients such as fiordilatte and provola di Agerola, Caputo flour and San Marzano tomatoes. In Rome they only buy fresh basil, the rest comes from Naples.

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Crossing the threshold of the restaurant, the numerous differences with the original restaurant are immediately noticeable, starting with the restaurant located on two floors for a total of 120 seats, which will become 300 with the summer.

No marble for the tables, fairly spaced, but white wood with metal cutlery; At the entrance, however, there is no shortage of legendary numbered cards, although the queue of people waiting patiently for their turn - although there is - is not as long and impossible as that of the original location.

Forget, then, the exclusive presence of margherita and marinara, a no-frills choice of pitch at the pizzeria in via Sersale, almost a philosophy based on the quick change of tables, complete with academic football if someone gets involved (wasting time).

The menu of the Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Roman sauce is much richer: there are more appetizers and pizzas, such as Neapolitan and stuffed (calzone) baked or fried.

Peroni and Nastro Azzurro beers, the most requested, as well as a decent selection of Saint John craft beers, which despite the name are produced in the upper Sannio, province of Benevento.

Not even too casually throwing an eye on prices, the differences for the wallet are painful: a pizza margherita costs 7, 50 euros, which becomes 9, 50 in the double mozzarella version; the marinara costs as much as the margherita and the filling 13 euros, with an average surcharge of at least 3-4 euros compared to the Neapolitan counterparts.

Disdain, disgrace and rejection? At our specific question, we were told that the surcharge depends on management costs, higher than the Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples for initial investment, rent and staff.

And also that, to be honest, a good Margherita in Rome costs well over 10 euros.

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That said, let's focus on the thing that really matters: pizza.

Well, there we are: the cornice is fragrant, the thin and digestible central part, the flawless ingredients.

We tried the margherita double mozzarella, tasted the pizza with capers and anchovies from Cetara, really fresh, concluded the test with the calzone in the oven: classic filling made up of cicoli (cracklings), ricotta, provola di Agerola and black pork salami from Caserta.

Successful blend of flavors, if we want even original compared to other pizzerias loved by Neapolitans, while also in Rome the legacy of margherita is the same, and that is: "I want another one".

Which is good for those who do not tolerate mediocre quality pizzas.

Some criticism can be made to the cornice which becomes "rubbery" quite quickly, to signal a leavening that is not exactly perfect, and to the overall flavor: at present we are at 70% of the original levelHowever, a high percentage for the average standards of “photocopy” pizzerias.

After all, the customers were immediately many and a week after opening, the organization of the service is still in the running-in phase. Like the pizza chefs, all very young. Even one of our pizzas arrived different from how it was ordered.

The promise - not to be taken as a threat - is to return in some time to experience the goodwill perfected by the Condurro family.

Final advice: go there around noon or at the latest at 7pm, you shouldn't have any problems finding an available table.

At least until everyone gets into the mood of the smart start.

The Antica Pizzeria Da Michele Rome

Via Flaminia 80/82 (inside the Explora Museum)

Open every day from 11am to 11pm, reservations cannot be made

Tel. 06.32600432

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