Table of contents:
- Closures: Carapina | Rome, Florence
- Closures: Gourmet ice cream, Florence
- Closures: Stefino | Bologna
- Closures: Pasqualina | Milan
- Closures: Pretto | Milan
- Closures: Claudio Torcè | Rome
- Openings: O. G. G. I. | Trieste
- Openings: Gambrinus | Perugia
- Openings: The Ice Cream Shop of Music | Milan
- Openings: Italian Chocolates | Milan
- Openings: Gelatin | Genoa
- Openings: Food | Brescia
- Openings: Alberto Marchetti | Turin
- Openings: Fridge | Rome
- Openings: La Giudecca | Rome
- Aperture: World Wide Gelato | Saint Gimignano
- International openings
Video: Artisan ice cream: the most anticipated openings of 2017, and some closings
2024 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 12:26
Homemade ice cream: where did we stay?
The question is rhetorical, the same one we use every year these days to present the new season, complete with more or less expected openings and inevitable closures, caused by the most disparate reasons.
A new season that, is inevitable, retires our ranking of the 100 best Italian ice cream parlors of 2016, waiting for the new one that, as for the other years, we will publish in the summer.
Closures: Carapina | Rome, Florence
The closing that made the most noise was that of Carapina, announced in February on the stage of Identità Golose - the congress of signature cuisine open to ice cream makers - by Simone Bonini, who for visibility seems to have picked up the baton as a man-image of ice cream tricolor handcrafted by Guido Martinetti di Grom.
With the Roman office closed just two years after opening, one of the two shops in Florence closed, Bonini intends to take new paths, aiming - he said - on an unidentified "ice cream restaurant" (!?).
In the meantime, he uses the ice cream shop in via Lambertesca, in the center of Florence, to also supply the food truck that he will spend all summer on the Lungarno del Tempio in Florence.
Closures: Gourmet ice cream, Florence
In the Tuscan capital, Il gelato gourmet (# 46 in the 2016 Dissapore ranking) also closed, with the owner, Marco Ottaviano, intending to move the wells to Mugello, away from mass tourism which, in his opinion, complicates things for those who pursues quality production.
Closures: Stefino | Bologna
Waiting to reopen with new partners, Stefino has also closed in Bologna, the reign of Stefano Roccamo, ice cream maker from Bern chocolate, precursor of organic, vegan and gluten-free ice cream, not always easy, due to a sometimes integralist attitude in the choice of ingrediants
Even the Milanese panorama always remains sparkling and dynamic but not for everyone.
Closures: Pasqualina | Milan
La Pasqualina, an ice cream shop, pastry shop and chocolate shop opened in Bergamo, successfully exported to Porto Cervo, no less, finally replicated in Milan, but which has not met the favor of the Milanese, has also closed.
Closures: Pretto | Milan
Even Pretto, a Venetian chain of starred ice cream (to make the main flavors they have been called established chefs) has sold the premises in Piazza Duca d’Aosta and Corso di Porta Ticinese.
A few days ago the Milanese offices of Sandrino, another chain of ice cream shops, this time from Puglia, which in this way remained in the Lombard capital despite the closure of the first ice cream shop in S. Babila.
Closures: Claudio Torcè | Rome
Marching back also for Claudio Torcè, perhaps the most appreciated master of Roman artisan ice cream, creator of a thousand inviting and unique flavors, who has closed most of the premises with his name in the sign (owned and franchised) to focus on ice cream shop in via dell'Aeronautica and on the two shops in viale Aventino and Viale Marconi.
Now, reading this string of closures, one could observe that in Italy the artisan ice cream market is saturated.
It is not so. At least judging by the excitement that marks this start of the season. What are we talking about? We will tell you immediately.
Openings: O. G. G. I. | Trieste
The Officina del gelato italiano, chain of artisanal ice cream shops (# 41 in the 2016 Dissapore ranking), born in Udine, with subsequent openings in Varese, Bologna and Spain, in Barcelona, has just landed in Trieste, together with the symbolic flavor, or Pulcinella (fresh ricotta, Modica chocolate flakes, pistachio and orange scent).
Openings: Gambrinus | Perugia
Matteo Carloni, owner of Gambrinus, an ice cream shop that Perugian artisan ice cream enthusiasts know well for its 23 flavors made with Umbrian milk and cream (# 67 in the 2016 Dissapore ranking) opens the second shop in the Umbrian capital.
Openings: The Ice Cream Shop of Music | Milan
Let's go back to Milan, where La Gelateria della Musica, a well-known brand in the city also for dividing fans between supporters and detractors, is preparing to reach seven openings, with a new store in the Turro district.
Openings: Italian Chocolates | Milan
One of the most interesting novelties of this early season is the transformation of Cioccolati Italiani in via De Amicis, formerly a pagan temple consecrated to the god of chocolate (even if the ice cream is far from perfect), into a real factory, so as to intercept the trend of the bean to bar, that is the controlled production at every stage, from the cocoa bean to the bar of chocolate.
Another novelty: the gourmet ice cream cups designed by Leonardo di Carlo, world champion in pastry and TV star of The Greatest Pastry Chef, who for the modest price of € 12 will try to relaunch table service, which has gone to artisan ice cream parlors disappearing over time.
Openings: Gelatin | Genoa
A curious experiment is that of Gelatina, which becomes the first Italian artisan ice cream parlor to combine ice cream and gastronomy books. In contrast to the increasingly smaller size of contemporary shops, there is also the space for presentations, exhibitions and workshops.
Openings: Food | Brescia
The ice cream fruit of fermentation and probiotic, that is enriched with a range of precious nutrients, is among the 2017 trends to keep an eye on. The first ice cream shop specializing in probiotic ice creams is called Alimento, opened in the center of Brescia (via A. Gallo 2-8) by Cesare Rizzini, also offered paired with quality pizza alla pala.
Openings: Alberto Marchetti | Turin
New substantial investment for Alberto Marchetti (# 15 in the 2016 Dissapore ranking) who lands in the central Piazza CLN with Casa Marchetti, shop.
It is the challenge of the Turin ice cream maker to tell the production of his ice cream step by step, in a two-storey shop with space for show cooking, a Slow Food library, Guido Gobino's chocolate and the coffee of the San Domenico roasting company, various presentations and direct sale of the ingredients used. On sight this time there will be no production laboratory but provocatively the warehouse, as a sign of transparency towards customers.
Openings: Fridge | Rome
Frigo, Cristina Bowerman's ice cream truck, already transformed into a real ice cream parlor at the Testaccio market, also finds space in the rooms of Romeo and Juliet, the maxi-sized bistro just opened by the star chef in the capital.
Openings: La Giudecca | Rome
What exactly does "ice cream parlor & living" mean (it should allude to a more relaxed consumption of ice cream, a bit in the mood of Starbucks, to understand each other), should be asked directly to the managers of this beautiful ice cream shop in via Britannia 74, just a stone's throw away from piazzale Tuscolo.
Aperture: World Wide Gelato | Saint Gimignano
Sergio Dondoli of the Gelateria di Piazza (# 34 in the 2016 Dissapore ranking) has opened an ice cream themed showroom, and is now the owner of the World Wide Gelato brand which promotes new openings abroad by entrepreneurs of Italian artisan ice cream.
International openings
It is not yet a real trend, but Italian artisan ice cream, as it should be, is looking abroad with increasing attention.
Fatamorgana (# 19 Dissapore 2016 ranking), the well-known Roman chain founded by Agnese Spagnulo, arrives in Los Angeles, in the Hollywood area.
L’Albero dei Gelati (# 9th ranking in Dissapore 2016), a mini-chain from Brianza specializing in fresh and local ingredients, when possible self-produced in the back garden, doubles in New York.
After Austin, Texas, Dolce Neve, the ice cream parlor owned by the brothers Marco and Francesca Silvestrini, has recently opened the second ice cream parlor, this time in Houston.
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