Video: Hermeneutics of fried dumplings with addresses
2024 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 12:26
Reggio Emilia is a cadet city. Over the centuries the second-born and first-born females without hope of kingdom of Parma and Modena ended up in one of the thousand convents. Subjection exploded from time to time in the “finitimo e cittier” countryside, and the people of Reggio disemboweled some mayor with great enthusiasm during the hundred bread revolts of which we have faint memory. This may be why aReggio takes an aperitif standing up "like horses" to quote Camillo Langone. In the land with the most overrated gastronomy in Italy there is the tradition of fried dumplings, leavened dough made with water and flour and various additives that change every ten kilometers. Linguists calm down, I went to check: there is a provincial law that authorizes the people of Reggio to say "the" dumpling, and it does not seem to be unconstitutional. So the fried gnocco with a bowl of Lambrusco and two slices of stuff is the typical * fast food * of Reggio Emilia: if only for some years the Tavole del gnocco have been contaminated by nearby Modena with the crescentine montanare, which the common people call tigelle dal name of the stones on which they were cooked.
The fried gnocco is not dietetic, especially in accompaniment to cured meats: the ideal frying is in lard, deliciously soft and tasty, but just a drizzle resting on the liver. The fried dumpling bars on Saturdays and Sundays are… er… packed: with couples, with companies, with families. Murati. Although the offer generally thrives on the waterline of sufficiency, especially for the side dish: hams that are too fresh, salami with an industrial touch, hastily seasoned coppa, ship's mortadellazze. Inexpensive Lambrusco wines from the cooperative cellar, cheeses of good command.
One of the newer addresses is the Vecchio Tiglio, in Masone on the Via Emilia. The gnocco is among the best in the square, decent cured meats, an unusually wide choice of Lambrusco including some good labels. The tigelle are a bit flabby, but generally better than average. Lisandrèt on the road to Regnano is a huge room, with the gift of abundance: it also does traditional cuisine, the dumplings are medium, just enough cured meats. Two or three labels on demand. The Double Liter in San Rigo is always very full, a large refurbished rural building, in which the tigelle are better than the gnocco, and the cured meats are as usual. An ounce of diversity at the Artidoro, La Noce di Borzano: no large room but a more reserved environment. Good dumplings with slightly more cured meats. Garibaldian service, and cellar limited to an insufficient local Lambrusco.
The choices of Le Pietre di Canossa, near the famous Matildic Castle, are well above the average, with various non-trivial labels, including organic ones. Well the dumpling, singed the tigelle. Greasy and heavy that of the Hunter in Cà Bertacchi, excellent at the Locanda dell’Amorotto in Onfiano, near Carpineti. Barely passable salami, medium tigelle. Two or three wines going in a funny modernist setting in a rural house. Mystical instead is the experience of the Pieve di San Vitale, reachable with a 20-minute walk from the Castle of Carpineti: gnocco made with stone-ground wholemeal flour, cold cuts of choice, two or three not bad wines and Nustrana beers from the microbrewery of Viano.
In general, the modest level of the proposal is surprising compared to the undoubted success of the premises. So I wonder, does the abundant flow of patrons justify a lowering of the guard level? If anyone wants to pursue a career as a gnoccofrittista, I guarantee the mijardi, but what do I say mijardi, mijoni. But what does it take to find a proper charcuterie and a few regular bottles?
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