Cà Vegia of Salice Terme - A soup that Miles Davis would love
Cà Vegia of Salice Terme - A soup that Miles Davis would love

Video: Cà Vegia of Salice Terme - A soup that Miles Davis would love

Video: Cà Vegia of Salice Terme - A soup that Miles Davis would love
Video: Top 10 best Restaurants in Salice Terme, Italy 2024, March
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Salice Terme is famous in the earth for two reasons: the first is the sulphurous exhalations that from the belly of Beelzebub give its muds salsobromoiodic properties, whatever this impervious word can mean. The second is that the charming town near the Apennines has been the site of summer retreats for years, and this has attracted crowds of tourists. At least so it is written in the history books. Salice Terme out of season is a chapter of Chronicles of the After Bomb: the vaguely Soviet-looking arbergoni are empty of the octogenarian tales in search of their aerosol, the parking lots are deserted, the shutters lowered. Walking through the streets you can almost hear the clicking of neon lights, like in American desert movies.

Climbing the stairs of Ivan Musoni's local harvest has a cathartic function of detaching from breakfast with coffee, from dinners with broths, from baskets for packed lunches. In the Casa di Musoni you can breathe the ancient and very contemporary attitude of hospitality: trusting here means trusting someone completely, and without fear of surprises. A journey full of water that touches all the classic declinations, from raw to fried, to contaminations.

Relying on it also means approaching some Oltrepò label outside the commercial stereotypes: Simona - companion in life and profession - will give you small surprises sought in excellence, without pressure and without emphasis but with the taste of sharing wisdom. Exciting.

A freshly seared scallop with morels comes out of the kitchen in sequence, a plate of raw ham of exorbitant quality - curious the insert of crispy pin squid - and a squid stuffed with artichokes, perhaps the only slightly supported preparation of the entire trip with that velvety filling and that concassé of tomato perfect for balance but a little slippery in flavor. The cautious use of salt does justice to the flavors, delicate but defined, spaced and clear.

Then the event: a stew that is worth the trip. Dense and dark soup, of overwhelming juiciness, differentiated and exact cooking, non-muscular demonstration, rather suffused with knowledge and technique. More Miles Davis than Randy Brecker, so to speak. Also keep an eye on the history of this area at the crossroads of many regions: pumpkin ravioli, raised by the salty scratch of the bottarga and by the fresh fuminini of chives, seasoned with textual abundance of butters. Then again the sea on land with cod and polenta, made into pods. And finally, an unmissable frittino, also striking to the eye in the (dry) yellow paper cones.

Ice cream in desserts: the excellent strawberry jelly in the pre-dessert, covered with a drop of grappa, and a Pink Lady apple tarte tatin accompanied by sheshouan pepper ice cream, the best ever.

Among the glasses proposed, it is difficult to forget the overripe Chardonnay I Ronchi di Caseo, a white-red from 2003 that escapes any sciardonnesque buttery to offer a dry and prolonged, intoxicating mouth.

Satisfying cuisine, that of Ivan: a little salt and a lot of flavor. So matter, and a concreteness that perhaps in some situations becomes preponderant, as in some condiments. So you will not have hyperbole, but a few moments of pure happiness.

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Ca 'Vègiâ

Via Diviani, 27 Salice Terme PV

t. 0383944731

www.ristorantecavegia.it

The Tasting is scheduled in season, on-demand in the low season. You will have 7 courses for 75 Europeans

A la carte for four dishes you spend 80, excluding wines.

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Image: by the author, but genetically modified due to candle-light lighting. romantic, but disliked by the color temperature of the photos, irremediably greenish. better without.

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