The best restaurant in the world is not Mama
The best restaurant in the world is not Mama

Video: The best restaurant in the world is not Mama

Video: The best restaurant in the world is not Mama
Video: World's Best Restaurant Has A Year Long Waiting List | World's Best Restaurants | TRACKS 2024, March
Anonim

You will forgive me if the tuning fork that sets the tone for this post is once again Carlo Cracco, who during a perfect food, interviewed by Ferruccio De Bortoli, confessed that the real secret of cooking is observing grandmothers. It is a lesson that certainly needs to be learned, knowing that without foundations you cannot build a palace, and not even a house of cards can hold up in the air.

Anna Gosetti della Salda's remains the most important Italian cookbook, and in tracing the culinary genealogy of Massimo Bottura the most remote name we can make is that of rezdora Lidia Cristoni, the sfoglina of his restaurant. Personally, I remember with sincere emotion the day of the discovery of an old notebook from the '70s that my grandmother used as a cookbook: the complexity and expertise of some recipes took me completely by surprise, they were times when the kitchen was the first place to work of many women and the necessity required an exploitation of the ingredients in which I find references to the contemporary Mystery Box of MasterChef. After all, genius often springs from necessity, a lot of great cuisine was born to fight hunger: I am thinking of Petronilla's recipes on Domenica del Corriere, or of the nineteenth-century housewives who invented the fifth quarter out of nothing, to make something that came to them more than edible. given and considered of no value, slaughterhouse waste otherwise intended for dogs.

Everything I have said so far is true, but another truth must also be said, because the thread that binds us to the kitchen of our ancestors must be held firmly, but being careful not to choke on it.

We continue to be a land of pasta makers, apparently easily satisfiable people who are moved by the boiled mommy, the Italian one, who still and always, as in the varieties and jokes, keeps their sons tied to the ragù. Or with other traditional dishes that we find heavy and outdated but then everyone, including gourmet, end up preferring to rethink what we ate when we were little.

THE BEST RESTAURANT IN THE WORLD IS NOT LA MAMMA.

If I had been given half a euro every time I heard my countryman say “the best restaurant in the world is my mother”, today my name would be on the list of billionaire bachelors published by Forbes, #einvece. Without forgetting the above, the exaltation regardless of home cooking generates monsters, including the prejudice towards creative cuisine, labeled as "nouvelle cuisine" without the slightest idea of what the term in question means and mocked regardless of the smallness of portions. Panza my hut! Then one is amazed at the success of the formulas "if magna a lot ('sti cocks of how) and if he spent a little time", eh.

And the technique, the technique of a good chef is something that is learned from skilled masters, after hard years of sweat and calluses, in which you slap and scream in a kitchen, the grave of your social life, whose fumes lead to precocious aging of the skin, not with a generic experience made up of continuous repetitions of ancestral gestures, which in any case must be preserved.

Whenever an Italian says that the best restaurant in the world is la mamma, a restaurant that cooks better than the aforementioned mother closes, leaving employees without work and creditors with a dry mouth.

Recommended: