Video: Damn crisis: Le Beccherie closes, the restaurant that invented tiramisu
2024 Author: Cody Thornton | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 12:26
On March 30, 2014, the restaurant that invented tiramisu closes. And it closes a small corner of Italy. Le Beccherie, in Treviso, open for three generations, closes because it is no longer in the business. Too much competition: in times of crisis, long aperitifs win. And updating costs effort and money.
Especially if like Carlo Canpeol, the owner, you are 60 years old and have a bit of a bitterness in your mouth. “Today the tobacconists offer food, in bars we eat. In a wholesale center they offered delicious dishes to be cooked in the microwave for one and a half euros each for fast food. And there are no controls, there are no rules to be respected.
Anything but bitter is the mouthful of the Italians' favorite energizing dessert. At Dissapore, however, we have fleas about the primacy of the invention of the Italic star delicacy.
It is a more liquid than ever: the match is played between Veneto and Friuli. We are still in the order of contiguous regions. Three contending for the podium: Le Beccherie (Treviso), Il vetturino (Pieris, Friuli), Albergo Roma (Tolmezzo, Friuli).
The governor of Veneto Zaia is crying, as reported by the Corriere del Veneto: “We will miss a place to taste the territory and tradition without ever getting bored. The Beccherie are victims of a series of factors including a certain flattening of the world gastronomic culture.
Really.
Strange that this is said in one of those phases in which fudité is great, and Farinetti is opening a new Eataly in Milan. But it is true that more and more successful restaurant businesses find their headquarters in Milan or Rome. Many great chefs open a restaurant in Milan, whatever the regional origin; Canzian, Cracco, Berton - just to mention the Veneto-Friuli axis. Even Franco Pepe da Caiazzo's stellar pizza, in the province of Caserta, will soon have its Milanese counterpart.
So what? A sad truth is drawn. We are trained in the province, we learn from mothers and traditions, we refine everything with school and then we open in one of these two cities: either Rome or Milan.
A process that has a name: cultural (gastro) impoverishment.
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