Eating out 2024, March

In mid-August I eat melting pot

In mid-August I eat melting pot

Saturday 15 August in Milan and in addition to the editorial office. Desolation is an understatement. When this is the case, a few fixed thoughts are unleashed. One of them is food. Or rather, the procurement of food. As a Paleolithic woman I only think about feeding myself: it doesn't matter what I ingest is made of. […]

How does the religious tourist eat?

How does the religious tourist eat?

There is a lot of talk about the church these days. But September is also the month of great pilgrimages. A river of believers that, for example, crosses every year San Giovanni Rotondo, a city in the province of Foggia and home to the Sanctuary of Padre Pio. The inhabitants are 25,000 so, net of the elderly and children, all […]

Filippo La Mantia, the special envied

Filippo La Mantia, the special envied

The more they talk badly about it, the more I enjoy it, because it seems to me that someone "gnaws" (Roman) too much. Filippo La Mantia knows his stuff, and this doesn't suit everyone. I look out from the terrace of the new restaurant, the restaurant of the Hotel Majestic in Via Veneto, and I understand that it has hit the mark again. Then, while […]

How do you recognize a good sushi restaurant?

How do you recognize a good sushi restaurant?

Flavio Parisi is 31 years old and spent almost 6 years in Tokyo, where he works as a freelance journalist. Since I have lived in Tokyo, I have rarely found as much Japan in the Italian news as in this summer. Sushi, raw fish, sashimi, hygienic dangers, cultural identity… Everything seems to me treated in a superficial way and […]

How do you eat by the sea? Part one: the Adriatic Riviera

How do you eat by the sea? Part one: the Adriatic Riviera

How do Italians eat at the seaside? Mind you, this is not an investigation, we know that you can get by on the beach. But after swimming, when hunger catches up, how does those who are not on full board or only go to the beach on Sundays solve the problem? Of course, it depends on the offer and the beaches you frequent. Thus, for the […]

What is Ciccio Sultano doing in the Art section of the New York Times?

What is Ciccio Sultano doing in the Art section of the New York Times?

If at your restaurant table often sits a not too tall man, with black hair and dark complexion, who carefully studies the dishes and the way you serve them, it is possible that it is Alessandro Di Rosa. Should he offer you his drawings at the end of the meal, listen to him. Because in this […]

You deserve it, the lobster at 366 euros

You deserve it, the lobster at 366 euros

Surprise dinner on the eve of August 15th for a Milanese family on holiday in La Maddalena, Sardinia. The news was announced on Tuesday by the journalist Filippo Facci in the Giornale. But by verifying places and characters Dissapore discovers some inaccuracies. The newspaper talks about the La Scogliera restaurant in Porto Santo Stefano. In fact, a place with that name […]

How do you eat by the sea? Second part: Calabria

How do you eat by the sea? Second part: Calabria

After the Adriatic Riviera, today Dissapore takes you to the Calabrian coast washed by the Tyrrhenian Sea. La Vela would be a nautical club, you know, one of those only for members. In reality, those who wish can do the card à la volée. It is located next to the port of Vibo Marina, in the middle of the Pennello, the illegal neighborhood that […]

Cantarelli - Grocery store with small restaurant attached

Cantarelli - Grocery store with small restaurant attached

2009 is the year of retro food. Why do we choose it, and what does it say about us? To answer these questions, Dissapore will dedicate a post to memories every day this week. Let's call it: the week of nostalgia. This is the Espresso 1980 Guide to Italy. On page 189 there was a description of a key restaurant in the […]

How we were - The Italian guide of Espresso

How we were - The Italian guide of Espresso

2009 is the year of retro food. Why do we choose it, and what does it say about us? To answer these questions, Dissapore will dedicate a post to memories every day this week. Let's call it: the week of nostalgia. The father of the nascent table journalism was Federico Umberto d’Amato, editor of the Espresso Guide of Italy, a singular character and […]

Give a guide to Dario Franceschini (Remember)

Give a guide to Dario Franceschini (Remember)

This morning, after reading on Twitter Dario Franceschini's response to the niceties distributed yesterday by Minister Bunetta (“this elite of shit”, “the left are going to die and kill”) I was about to believe in a Supreme Being. Technological, responsive, witty. Do you want to see that Dario the secretary has already digested the separation from Bersani in the votes of the circles […]

How do you eat in the hospital? The story of Traction Man

How do you eat in the hospital? The story of Traction Man

If we say that eating at the hospital is not really fun, we all agree, I think. To distract himself, a patient whose only known identity is Traction Man - The Man in Traction - has devised a curious pastime in three moves. 1) Photograph the food. 2) Upload the images to his blog. 3) Ask readers to guess what's in the […]

When you are in Rome do as Fulvio Pierangelini

When you are in Rome do as Fulvio Pierangelini

Quick, get a pen and paper. Since the first love is never forgotten, following the traces left by Google we found the most recent photo of Fulvio Pierangelini, taken by the French super critic François Simon in the garden of the Hotel de Russie in Rome. That is to say, the place where the chef vanished from Gambero months ago […]

De-brunching Milan - Nicola Cavallaro

De-brunching Milan - Nicola Cavallaro

Nicola Cavallaro, still a young chef in Italy where one is young up to 45 years old, has decided to retrace his escape from the city in the opposite direction. I mean: a lifeline for the weekend convicts, often forced into narrow schedules that leave little room for the conviviality of Sunday at Noon. So […]

The group does not decide what I eat at the restaurant. I

The group does not decide what I eat at the restaurant. I

Order at the restaurant like a pro. Just when we could advise you how to do it… [1 - Take the menu and discard the dishes you have already seen in other restaurants, with those, the chef is just trying to be trendy. 2 - Find the most unusual dishes and make a cross on them, with those, the chef […]

The Sud restaurant by Marianna Vitale in Quarto, Naples

The Sud restaurant by Marianna Vitale in Quarto, Naples

To truly understand Marianna Vitale's cuisine you should listen to her when at the end of the service she tells of when her life derailed between the fires of a hob. He takes off his very high hat - almost a very secular tiara - and looks around, looking with big eyes and a little lost for words. Then, […]

Identità Golose 2010 - A guide with no marks

Identità Golose 2010 - A guide with no marks

If reincarnation exists I would like to return as Paolo Marchi's fingertip. It was Pamela Anderson, in Woody Allen's original line, but this is the day of the inventor of Identità Golose for the gastronomic demi-monde. Not the cooking congress, but the 2010 edition of the guide, presented yesterday at the Feltrinelli bookshop in Milan, in Piazza Piemonte. For sure […]

Scent of a woman

Scent of a woman

One evening in late summer, curled up in the armchair at my solingo table, I am trying to identify the complex architecture of the complex dish in front of me: autumnal lake frog leg mousse with shadowy deer consommé, pearls of angelica arcangelica and seeds of Bangla Desh linen lightly smoked on wood of […]

Things that are said on the Gambero Rosso restaurant guide for Italy 2010

Things that are said on the Gambero Rosso restaurant guide for Italy 2010

For a few days, most of the gastrophanics whose surname does not begin with "Per", and ends with "route", have been wondering what will happen in the 2010 edition of the Gambero Rosso guide to restaurants in Italy (excluding Clara Barra, who she is curator of the guide together with Giancarlo Perrotta). They say / We have heard (or we have heard why they say) that Carlo Cracco […]

For real? Dal Vero, in Badoere di Morgano, TV

For real? Dal Vero, in Badoere di Morgano, TV

They call it Rotonda di Badoere, the great Independence square. As you park, you look around astonished, struck by an out-of-scale grandeur: coming from Castelfranco Veneto, you have a perfect semicircle on your left, a barchessa with forty-one arches. On the right, a facade of a Venetian villa. Six hundred. Elegant and dry classicism: to look at everything you have to twist your neck. In […]

Why do all cooks hate blogs?

Why do all cooks hate blogs?

When the specialized press paturnia, I pretend to understand it. Until the day before yesterday, cooks and mangers had the last word - indeed the only one. Newspapers, magazines, guides. Today, if you want to know what's going on in the Italian scene, you have to turn on your computer. We repeat, one post at a time, blogs are changing the criticism of restaurants. But what […]

Lemonade wears out (who doesn't)

Lemonade wears out (who doesn't)

We follow our nosy gurmè, one summer evening, at dinner time: he sits in his place looking around, mingling with the environment that we could define as sober elegance. This evening's restaurant does a great cuisine, sometimes very great: sometimes immense. It is not a place for pushed long-distance mariners, nor for seekers of very little, nor […]

Enough pasta - Archangel and all the rest

Enough pasta - Archangel and all the rest

I would have liked to tell you about Arcangelo's pasta. The best spaghetti in Italy, he says, and I also say it very unworthily: those of Benedetto Cavalieri, in Maglie. I might have wanted to tell you about Arcangelo's guanciale, or the slightly smoked and aged pecorino made to measure. Or the chopped tomato in the matriciana. Maybe I should have told you about the colossal […]

The Ora d ’ Aria of Florence and the superhuman pigeon

The Ora d ’ Aria of Florence and the superhuman pigeon

Fat, big and gassed. It is the pigeon of Marco Stabile, chef of L'Ora d’Aria in Florence, a French variety of heavy size. He says, with a resigned smile: "In Italy it is not possible". In fact, in Italy, invasive birds can be prepared for food use only by decollation, while with gas - he says - "they preserve […]

Tell me how many points you have and I'll tell you if you can open a restaurant

Tell me how many points you have and I'll tell you if you can open a restaurant

Slowly forward. If you have a restaurant or are planning to open one, read carefully, the risk of carrion getting on it is high. Ready… careful… go. From today to open a bar or a restaurant will be competing. Inaugurates whoever has the most points. And how do you earn points? By ensuring certain services. To those […]

A bad restaurant. To write it or not to write it?

A bad restaurant. To write it or not to write it?

Background: the friend says, go there that others have told me that it is fine, and I'm going. The environment made it nice, with all the trinkets and the luxury paraphernalia [cit.] In place. Actually, just before entering all the alarm bells began to ring in chorus: the list of food includes 10 […]

Which league is La Scaletta di Milano enrolled in?

Which league is La Scaletta di Milano enrolled in?

The important thing is to understand what sport you are playing in. Then you can decide which league to join. Now I am the reporter of the Championship of Successful Clubs, and I see a room full of tables for five, six people, despite the epic of the parking lot and the buzz that turns into a roar that seems to be the charge of the 600 […]

Being Clara Barra

Being Clara Barra

Put yourself in Clara Barra's shoes. While it has undeniable advantages - the editor of the Gambero Rosso's Restaurants d’Italia guide fills them better than any of its peers - on the other, it must not be easy. The reaction of the disappointed by the new edition of the guide must be addressed. Who are many and illustrious, first of all, Carlo Cracco. One on […]

As it is, inside, Eataly Los Angeles

As it is, inside, Eataly Los Angeles

As it is inside Eataly Los Angeles, the new megastore that the company led by Oscar Farinetti will open shortly in the city of cinema. We show you spaces, shops, restaurants and all the interiors

Francesco Sposito of Taverna Estia - Emerging chef of Italy 2010

Francesco Sposito of Taverna Estia - Emerging chef of Italy 2010

Campania Felix, this year even more. The new Gambero Rosso guide has declared Francesco Sposito, young chef of the Taverna Estia di Brusciano (NA), emerging chef for the year 2010. I have already been to this restaurant, but the last time without being able to touch food. Basically, to "please" two friends on the same day, I was at […]

Eat your enemy - The Cup-Noodles

Eat your enemy - The Cup-Noodles

I was going to ship his limbs to 4 different addresses, it was decided. But there was no need to amputate those who sold it to me, I took the test at the Cup-Noodles and I'm fine (I did it for you, mind you). The enemy - yes, it is authentic junk-food - is in a sealed polystyrene cup that makes the ingredients known to me […]

100 things you shouldn't do if you own a restaurant (Part one)

100 things you shouldn't do if you own a restaurant (Part one)

Explore the customer-restaurant relationship. Wanting to be your first source, Dissapore returns to the crime scene. The New York Times set the tone last weekend, letting us know the "100 things you shouldn't do if you have a restaurant". Even if, as in the best serials, he revealed […]

How the cook should use the blogger

How the cook should use the blogger

Akeem Sciannimanico was a young lover of traditional cuisine. His favorite trend was the Apulian-Moroccan one, far more greedy than those Lucano-Sinhalese deviations found in the economic taverns on the northern outskirts. Akeem lived in Fomentate con Parcheggio, a condominium of ten thousand apartments built in the place of Vertemate con Minoprio. The parking from […]

The Rosso-Matteo Vigotti at the twentieth century in Meina (Novara)

The Rosso-Matteo Vigotti at the twentieth century in Meina (Novara)

Tonight it's just you in the dining room, and the maitre d 'looks at you often: and it couldn't be otherwise. So it is easier to catch the sparkle of pride in his eyes when he tells you "That Bettelmatt is the original one. I'm sure of it because I brought it down ". You are enjoying the nuances of those four cheeses including […]

100 things you shouldn't do if you own a restaurant (Part Two)

100 things you shouldn't do if you own a restaurant (Part Two)

Present the "100 things you must not do if you have a restaurant", the kilometer-long list of tips that the New York Times gave as a true serial expert in two parts, 50 last Thursday and 50 yesterday? What could we do, dear little readers of Dissapore, after having translated the first part? Obligatory answer, do […]

La Brioschina in Milan. (The chef is not the center forward, he is the goalkeeper)

La Brioschina in Milan. (The chef is not the center forward, he is the goalkeeper)

Until the day before yesterday, when Gigi Buffon cleared the role, playing on goal was a job lacking in satisfaction. If you do everything you can to the maximum you draw, and if you fail it is a goal. Frustrating: little glory and great responsibility. The glory, that is for the center forward who if he misses it will be for the next time. I am […]

100 things you don't have to do blah blah blah. (Part three, the best is in the comments)

100 things you don't have to do blah blah blah. (Part three, the best is in the comments)

Usual. We had to read the entire list of 100 things you must not do if you have a restaurant published in two parts by the New York Times (one and two) and translated by Dissapore (one and two) to understand that the best was yet to come. And, as usual, he arrived in the comments, many […]

Le Robinie by Enrico Bartolini - November 24 is not Michelin's day

Le Robinie by Enrico Bartolini - November 24 is not Michelin's day

A breathless arrival after a trip from Rome, with the Oltrepò hills still clear enough to be appreciated through the glass room. A tabloid-format menu and a wine list as big as a Bible are immediately in hand. Despite the difficulty faced with the choice of dishes, I struggle to forget the "Spuma di prosciutto […]

Fatty liver, crushed liver. (Remove tuna and foie gras from the menu)

Fatty liver, crushed liver. (Remove tuna and foie gras from the menu)

Nobody goes to a restaurant because they are hungry: when you are hungry, you go to the baker and make yourself a page of focaccia, or you stop at the motorway restaurant; or go into a restaurant for a plate of pasta drenched in sauce. Go to the restaurant to be in company, to spend an evening, to butter a meeting at the very beginning. For […]

Should the taverns in Italy be resistant and genetically located on the left?

Should the taverns in Italy be resistant and genetically located on the left?

What is Osterie d'Italia 2010? The first answer does not count - the "Subsidiary of Italian-style mangiarbere", which Slow Food presented yesterday at the Capitol - but the second. Kindly provided in the press by Andrea Scanzi, the Bernoocolat writer who has succeeded where everyone has failed, surpassing the unsurpassed slowfoodists through snobbery. So, what is Osterie d'Italia 2010? "It would like to be the catalog […]